The skincare and beauty market is undergoing a rapid restructuring phase. With the tightening of European regulations on environmental claims, the rise of at-home dermatological devices, and the emergence of impact rating systems in-store, current beauty trends are no longer limited to the launch of new textures or seasonal palettes. They are redefining how a product is formulated, labeled, and sold.
Green Claims on Cosmetics: What the European Directive Changes
The European Parliament voted on March 12, 2024, for the so-called “Green Claims” directive, which strictly regulates terms like “carbon neutral,” “biodegradable,” or “ocean-friendly” applied to cosmetic products. The European Commission confirmed in its statement on the same day that unsubstantiated claims will be penalized after a transition period.
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Any brand claiming an environmental benefit will need to provide verifiable evidence. This framework goes well beyond simple marketing display: it imposes data traceability and an audited calculation methodology. For consumers, this means that terms like “clean beauty” or “green formula” can no longer be used as selling points without technical justification.
Specialized platforms like Univers Beauté already allow for the comparison of brands’ actual commitments against these new requirements by cross-referencing compositions and displayed labels.
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However, field feedback varies on this point: some niche brands argue that compliance represents a disproportionate cost relative to their revenue, while large groups see it as an opportunity for differentiation. The concrete effect on shelf labels will only be fully visible at the end of the transition period.
Beauty Eco-Score: Environmental Transparency In-Store and Online
Since 2023, several French retailers have been testing algorithms for environmental impact ratings directly visible to consumers. The initiative is based on the EcoBeautyScore consortium, which includes several major players in the cosmetics sector and whose work was made public in 2024.
The principle: each product receives a score calculated based on its carbon footprint, the recyclability of its packaging, and the presence of controversial ingredients. Sephora in France and Marionnaud are among the retailers experimenting with this system.
Known Limitations of Environmental Scoring
The available data does not allow for conclusions about the comparative reliability of these scores from one retailer to another. Several variables remain opaque:
- The weighting between carbon footprint and recyclability differs among consortia, making scores difficult to compare from one distributor to another.
- The evaluation of “controversial” ingredients relies on lists that vary according to the scientific references used, with no single standard to date.
- The calculation scope (transport, production, end of life) is not harmonized, which may artificially favor certain product formats.
This scoring represents a real step forward in terms of transparency, but it does not replace careful reading of the INCI list or verification of independent certifications (Cosmos, Ecocert).
At-Home Dermatological Care: Microneedling, Acid Peels, and LED
The most notable trend in skincare in recent years concerns the adoption of devices from procedural dermatology for home use. Microneedling, acid-based peels, and LED masks have quickly become mainstream.
The National Agency for the Safety of Medicines (ANSM) published an opinion on July 20, 2023, updated in November of the same year, to remind of the increasingly strict safety recommendations associated with these practices. At-home microneedling, for example, requires needles of limited length to avoid risks of infection or abnormal scarring.
What the ANSM Specifically Regulates
Acid peels sold in pharmacies or online have varying concentrations, and the agency emphasizes that some dosages fall under medical procedures, not cosmetic care. The boundary between beauty product and medical device is blurring, raising a regulatory classification issue.
LED masks, on the other hand, benefit from a surge in popularity driven by social media, but long-term efficacy evidence remains patchy for consumer devices. Professional devices, calibrated in terms of wavelength and power, are not comparable to the domestic versions sold for a few dozen euros.
Makeup and Face Trends: What Structures the Market in 2025
On the makeup side, face trends are organized around two axes. The first favors lightweight textures and luminous finishes, continuing the “glass skin” trend popularized by K-beauty. The second brings eyebrows back to the center of attention, with more precise structuring products (tinted waxes, long-lasting fixing gels).
The so-called hybrid makeup, which combines pigments and skincare actives (hyaluronic acid, niacinamide), continues to progress. These formulas allow for layering care and coverage without weighing down the skin, responding to a demand for simplified routines.
Fragrance follows a similar logic of personalization: brands increasingly offer discovery formats and modular compositions, where consumers choose their base and top notes. This approach transforms the purchase of fragrance into a sensory experience rather than a brand purchase.
The common thread of these developments remains the same: beauty is shifting from marketing to proof. Whether through environmental rating, regulatory oversight of claims, or health recommendations on at-home devices, the sector is moving towards a demand for transparency that brands can no longer ignore.